‘I was there’ – My time on the Docks, Part 1

JV Part One25A guest post from blog reader John Viggars today.

A couple of weeks ago when photographer Tricia Porter graciously let me publish her 1970s ‘South Docks’ collection on here, one of the first comments on Twitter came from regular blog reader John Viggars who immediately said that most magical of all historical story phrases ‘I was there.’ He went on to mention he had some photos of his own from his days sailing in and out of our dying South Docks.

Naturally I asked him if he’d like to do a guest post on here. And here it is. Or rather here’s the first of two. This one mainly about the South Docks, Part 2, about the North, to come soon. With minimal interventions and editing from me. This is the real thing, unadulterated Liverpool history. A long read but a great one. Over to you John.

“Like Ronnie I have always been interested in the Liverpool docklands & therefore his invitation to write on the subject gives me a chance to walk around my memories, get out some old photographs and tell some stories from first 30 years of my life. I have few images from that time as film was expensive and my medium was transparency. I retrieved most of these here from the loft and notice they are losing their colour. Still, they help to paint the pictures of what I’m about to tell you.JV Part One01

As a younger man I thought life was a bed of roses. We never had much but never wanted for anything either. Growing up in the 60’s & 70’s things got steadily better for me, but then got a lot tougher in Liverpool generally, particularly in the early 80’s.  For most of the dock estate it was downhill all the way, until after the designation of the Freeport at Seaforth in 1984 when a steady improvement began, but only in a fraction of the 7.5miles of enclosed docklands.

JV Part One02Tales from my maternal grandfather, who had been a ships cook, may have sparked my enthusiasm for things nautical, so despite his passing on when I was a small child the fascination was continued as there were often opportunities to go to the North docks.

First though a little about myself. I am from Litherland a northern suburb of Liverpool outside its political boundary which makes me a ‘plastic’ Scouser?

(‘No it doesn’t John. If you speak scouse you are a Scouser, in my opinion’)

I started school in Litherland followed by Grammar in Waterloo and then to Southport Tech. Moving on to the Poly things did not go so well academically for me. Luckily my summer placement was precursor to a late engineering apprenticeship as I became first a Supervisor, then Engineering Manager, moving from general engineering into vehicle wiring manufacture, where I progressed to being Project Manager. Six years ago I was again faced with enforced change and after a while found myself selling reed switch-based vehicle electronics.JV Part One03

Anyway, my life in the docks!

I started with walks down to Seaforth shore with my father. You could get down to the sea wall then (near the original port radar tower) and could watch the ships in the river which was still pretty busy at the time. The father of one friend was a butcher on one of the ‘Empress’ ships and I remember being taken on board one of them when at junior school. Visiting ships often had open days for the public; this was one way of getting onto the dock estate, usually to Canada Dock, spurring on my interest.  During my early teens we used to go to the shore during school lunchtimes as we watched the Royal Seaforth container port take shape. This was the future?

Moving forward I knew some guys who worked on the tugs and got to go on the river on a few occasions; getting a different view of the docks than you got from the ferry rides across to Birkenhead.

I had however very little knowledge of the South docks until my late teens when my best friends’ older brothers asked me if I’d like to help ‘crew’ on their boat in the Coburg Dock. JV Part One04 JV Part One05 JV Part One06 JV Part One07

The docks to the south of the Pier Head had been officially closed in 1972 due to the decline in trade post containerisation. To save the cost of maintaining the complex hydraulic systems which operated the locks, the gates were moved to the open position at this time allowing a steady influx of silt.

It was not a total closure as such enterprises as the Dock Board workshops continued to function alongside South Ferry Basin.  I can also recall an odd ship mooring alongside the Grain Terminal in Brunswick mid 70’s – I think the two massive silos were still in use as there was still a little lorry traffic. I understand that the concrete silo built in the 1930’s (demolished around 1986) was known as the Dockers Cathedral due to its size and shape. Never thought of it at the time but it was big!

There were also small businesses still operating on the dock estate around Coburg like Howitts Timber and Robbins Marine. There was scrapyard over the dock on a pile frame and there was the HM Customs rummage centre. The lock gate men were gone but we still saw the customs guys in their uniform in ‘the Devils’ (Coburg) our local. However the remainder of the South Docks became a wasteland which was officially off limits to the public.JV Part One08 JV Part One09 JV Part One10 JV Part One11 JV Part One12 JV Part One13

After the docks became tidal the group of small boats using Dukes dock were forced to move,  the Coburg then became their home. It was free for anyone to use so a number of people who had not been able to afford mooring & lock gate charges became residents.

It was not without risk as the constantly moving silt impaired free passage.  The length of time either side of high water for boats to arrive and depart decreased to a couple of hours. I can recall on more than one occasion friends being ridiculed as they became stranded on mud banks only feet away from the dock wall. There they would have to stay for 5 or 6 hours – fishing trips ruined.

The Real Fisher folk

When I started my time boating, there were still a couple of professional fishermen venturing forth.   There were John Neary and  Albert Slack  (who sold his catch from his shop  in Park Lane). They sailed Nobbys, a type of local fishing boat used round the coast from Mid Wales to the Lake District,  developed for  fishing in shoal waters).

A good friend was Jimmy Moran who was ‘retired.’ He taught me a great deal about inshore trawling. He also cured me of my tendency to seasickness, by getting me to gut fish at the back of his boat ‘to take my mind off it!’ After a good day’s shrimping he could be seen selling his catch up the hill by the Royal Oak.

Dock life

There were guys from all walks of life spending their spare time repairing, sailing, motoring & fishing. They kept the docks alive for a few more years. Looking back it was a pretty shabby place with all manner of things left lying where they fell when the workforce were moved on. The rubbish just accumulated and stayed there, we didn’t really notice it. It meant that often those abandoned things became the subject of scavenging. Timber for repairs, pig iron for ballast. The dereliction had a strange beauty & also a sense of quietness, like a ghost town. I almost expected tumbleweed to pass some days just like in the old cowboy films.

When night time came it was a really eerie place as there were few lights still working. There were rats that looked as big as cats when you caught them in the headlights. One boat was inhabited by cats, can’t remember if they could get ashore but they were interbred. You could smell them a fair distance downwind.

In the summer we were able to go down there after work as well as the evenings. Some kept to themselves and others of us helped each other and drank together. Sailing would often be a family affair but generally I was the youngest of the group at 20, whilst the eldest there would have been in their 70’s I guess.

Early on most of my sailing was on a neighbour’s boat. It was an ex-Dock board ‘Surveyor’ boat which had originally been used to take soundings in the river and then direct dredgers where to work. This was converted for trawling, plus the occasional fishing party were taken on board. I crewed on the weeks where the tides suited trips out into Liverpool Bay, at other times helped with maintenance such as painting.JV Part One14 JV Part One15 JV Part One16 JV Part One17 JV Part One18 JV Part One19 JV Part One20 JV Part One21 JV Part One22 JV Part One23 JV Part One24

After a couple of years crewing for various guys I decided to get a boat of my own. I bought a partially converted lifeboat and along with my father we built a cabin on it ready for fishing. I went out on it only a couple of times before I decided the responsibility of being captain was too much for someone of my age and decided my time would be better employed running after members of the opposite sex. Thus my sailing career was abandoned but my interest was rekindled from time to time.

After a gap of a few years, spurred on by the first visit of the tall ships I joined the Friends of Merseyside Maritime Museum then volunteered for the boat maintenance team where I whiled away my Saturdays for another few years until work, marriage and children became more important users of my free time.JV Part One25 JV Part One26 JV Part One27 JV Part One28

During this period I was on the steel boat team due to my ‘skills’. Based on the Edmund Gardner we helped around the site with repairs. We also chipped & painted & even had a working party clearing the mud from one of the graving docks. It was good to be in some small way part of the early days of resurgence of the area. As a sort of payback I occasionally got to have some fun as well. This included a couple of trips in the North docks.”

Which is where we’ll continue the story in ‘John Viggars: My life in the Docks Part 2’ 

Historical context from John.

The dock system in Liverpool has developed steadily over a period of 300 years. Due to the size & treacherous nature of the Mersey tides, impounding of water was the only effective way to safely load & unload vessels visiting the city. This development of the port continues today as we await the new Liverpool 2 in river berths to suit the ‘post Panamax’ container ships. 

Whilst the ‘old’ dock was completed around 1715 there was slow progress over the 16th century. However the period between 1800 to 1860 saw rapid expansion south of the Pier Head. As ships grew in size the dock system had to be continuously modified to keep pace. The Albert Dock whilst ground breaking in concept with its ‘enclosure’ became   redundant almost immediately. Re-shaping  continued until the early 1900’s.  

At the time of closure the docks south of the Pier Head were :

AlbertCanning, Salthouse, Wapping, Dukes, Kings, Queens, CoburgBrunswick, Toxteth, Harrington, Herculaneum

North of the Pier Head:

Alexandra, Bramley-Moore, Brocklebank, Canada, Carrier,  Clarence, Collingwood, Gladstone, Hornby, Huskisson, Langton, Nelson, Princes, Salisbury, Sandon,  Seaforth, Stanley, Trafalgar, Victoria, Wellington, Waterloo Dock

Useful links
http://www.liverpoolmuseums.org.uk/maritime/archive/sheet/34
http://blog.liverpoolmuseums.org.uk/2007/03/maritime-tales-tug-boats-on-the-mersey/

Books: Nancy Ritchie Noakes – ‘Liverpool’s Historic Waterfront’ & ‘Jesse Hartley’.

14 thoughts on “‘I was there’ – My time on the Docks, Part 1

  1. Nick McGinn

    I recall when I was at Merseyside County Council, I registered the then County Secretary, Ken Wilson,
    as the “Ship’s Husband” of the Edmund Gardner when it was purchased by Merseyside Museums. He asked me ” What does being the Ship’s Husband involve Nick?
    I replied, “When it sinks, they phone you up to sort it out!

    Reply
      1. Nick McGinn

        Title to the ship would probably have passed to the residuary body and after that, on to Merseyside Museums “by operation of law” as we lawyers like to say, each time under a statutory transfer of property order. Well, you did ask!

  2. John Viggars

    I seem to remember that once the Gardner was dry docked she ceased to be a ‘ship’ in terms of the law. Something to do with insurance and being deemed a static structure. Legalities are complex I guess?

    Reply
  3. stan cotter

    fantastic story ron and a fantastic life full of character and interest, I remember albert slacks fish shop , slackys as everyone called it, but I remember it being either 448 or 450 mill street, I lived in 452a in those days

    Reply
    1. John Viggars

      Thanks Stan. I stand corrected on where Slacks shop was. Always got confused about all those parallel roads and find it even worse as I approach ‘the third age’

      Reply
    2. Jim Moran

      Hi I remember Albert Slack via my father Jim Moran. He was represented in the Liverpool Echo as the last fisherman in Liverpool (Jim that is). He went out with Albert often and supplied Albert with some of the last fish caught at that time
      Jim Moran Jnr
      Litherland nee Dingle Hose

      Reply
      1. John V

        Hi Jim, Don’t remember your father Jimmy ever talking about his family? Strangely I worked alongside your uncle Frank at the Maritime Museum a few years later & it took a while to make the connection. Jimmy was a mentor to me & a friend. He was one of those few who taught me a great deal about small boats & fishing. Can’t remember ever going out on the Primrose but I accompanied him (& his friend Con) on the Tramper several times both with fishing parties & occasionally trawling. Jimmy showed me how to knit (nets) & cured me of my seasickness which was ridiculed by some. He told me of many old salts who succumbed from time to time & that it was nothing to be ashamed of. Strangely I always thought there was a rivalry between him & Albert but maybe that was just them being the grumpy old men we all tend to grow into?
        I still have one photo of him on the Tramper wearing his distinctive green & yellow woolly hat. I also have the Liverpool Echo calendar page with his picture mending nets. He is fondly remembered from a time I wish I could revisit.

  4. kevin hampson

    I WAS THEre, MAYBE A FEW YEARS AFTER THESE PHOTOS WHERE TAKEN ,THE BIG BOAT MOORED IN THE GATE RECESS I THINK WAS THE MANCHURIE NOT SURE OF THE SPELLING

    Reply
  5. kevin hampson

    hi kevin hampson here, i recognise tommy the guy on left with the full head of hair,and steve his son, the guy on right also with a good head of hair cant think of his name but him and tommy both had boats called ip 23s this tells me it was a good few years before my dad and i brought our 1st boat down to the docks and i is that stan and john the steel boat builders from the old nissin hut at the end of the docks as i remember they had built 2 x 38 foot cabincrusers they showed me a 4 foot boat that they had scaled up to make the 38 footers, in my previous comment about a boat called the manchuri this was the boat that had the cats .going down the docks was mainley to check on your boat but see some of the charictors and to hear some of the stories from these guys eddy lea ron shaw mick barwise pat and jimmy harvy mick and don griff mad roy have ejoyed seeing the picks as i live alberta canada

    Reply
  6. John Viggars

    To David & Kevin: I’ll try & fill you in on some of the names but after nearly 40 years I can only recall those who I was close to.
    Ronnie Shaw (Blue Nobby in 4th picture), Harry Twist glasses (Black Gig boat), Tommy ‘ Tucker’ Dalton (black hair) his young son Stephen & father in law ‘Tommo’ Thompson, blue vest (San Rita lifeboat then IP23?), Alan (white shirt) & Danny (on slipway photo with Tommo) Heague (Kris IP23), Malcolm who broke his back falling off ladder going on to his boat (Son of Fred), Mike & Peter Jenn (Riversdale Mariner), Howard Williams (Turmoil IP23). The Manchari with all the cats, was owned by a Chinaman usually visited in the evening.
    Others not in the pictures: I remember Mick (boatbuilder) & Don Griffiths & Eddy. Also Albert Slack, John Neary & co (Comrade & Mystery), John Gully, ‘Mad’ Roy Wilson, Ben (had a Chemists shop), Pete ‘Top Lock’ , Jim (Nobby May), Jimmy Moran (Primrose Lifeboat), ‘Con’ (Tramper). Hope this helps?

    Reply

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